Visit me at: http://www.ericthecarguy.com/ I get lots of requests to just do straight up repair videos like this all the time and I’m always happy when I can…
1996 RL Rear Wheel Bearing Replacement -EricTheCarGuy
July 2nd, 2013 by admin
Visit me at: http://www.ericthecarguy.com/ I get lots of requests to just do straight up repair videos like this all the time and I’m always happy when I can…
I lived with that sound for more than 5 years on the back wheels of my Mitsubishi Mirage! Sold it few months ago, but nobody (mechanics) knew where that sound came from… Now I know, but it’s too late! Thank you Eric! Great video!
Erwic was like “bitch get in the car I want you to hear somethin!”
“there’s a torque spec,……. I’ve never used it” hahaha love the brutal honesty
Your Suppose to use the torque spec its actually very crutial because over or under torqueing will lead to premature destruction of the bearing the torque spec is designed to put a specific pressure on the bearings o please besure if ure doing this to torque it, if u over torque a new bearing it can be destroy in one week not good
your also suppose to clean the back of the rotor if not putting new on otherwise the rotor is microscopically not flush against the bearing assembly causing on off pressure on the bearing and brakes as the wheel turns
Thanks i still own a mirage!
Sweet video man!
Ericthecarguy… I have found in my experience with swapping out wheel bearing hub assemblies, that when you get to the part of removing the disc… you can (remove small screws if vehicle has them, then…) just remove the spindle nut, and take the entire hub off with the disc (if the disc is stuck and won’t budge.) Then after you have removed it, you can easily just set the disc/hub upright, hold the top with your hand, and gently tap the studs. Viola!! 99% of the time, the hub falls free.
I would like to see a video on replacing disc brakes and wheel bearings on a 2007 Town & Country. (or a Grand Caravan would do I suppose)
hitting two hammers together??????????????????? hammers are hardened steel and shatter when you smack them together.
Heck yea lol
do they???????….really??
for the races, tried something simple lastly with brazing torch, propane, whatever……heat up a few…and take a channel lock…pulls right off…gave enough expansion to pull by the thickess part of the race
If you use non-human brutal force then yes, they will, but if your afraid it will shatter you can just as well use one rubber or copper (50Oz) hammer, then itś save 🙂
No grease??
new bearings don’t need grease,unless they are placed upon a spindle.oh and the torque is finger tight.
Nothing beats pure brute force if that doesn’t work, USE MORE!
12:08, Was the best part.
how do you feel about using an oven to head the drum and freezing the bearing to avoid using a press. it works very well except it seams like there would be damage to the lubricant in the bearing?
Thanks Eric, you saved me a bundle of money!
Thank you for the video Eric, I now feel comfortable to do my own bearing replacement on my 96 RL! It’s been humming for about 3 months now.
The autism is strong with this one.
Thank you for making this video! I have a 97 Acura rl.
And was driven during the flood in NYC. And it’s starting to hum just like the car you worked on. The front wheel bearing would require a hydraulic press
I have a 03 Silverado 1500 4wd. I’m getting a squeal coming from the back passenger wheel it sounds like. Would I need to put a new wheel hub on it or a wheel bearing which I would I have to pull out the deferential to put the bearing on. and it is a squealing sound not a humming sound